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part01-第2部分
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sierras; or chains of mountains; destitute of shrub or tree; and
mottled with variegated marbles and granites; elevate their sunburnt
summits against a deep…blue sky; yet in their rugged bosoms lie
ingulfed verdant and fertile valleys; where the desert and the
garden strive for mastery; and the very rock is; as it were; compelled
to yield the fig; the orange; and the citron; and to blossom with
the myrtle and the rose。
* Note to the Revised Edition。… The Author feels at liberty to
mention that his travelling companion was the Prince Dolgorouki; at
present Russian minister at the Court of Persia。
In the wild passes of these mountains the sight of walled towns
and villages; built like eagles' nests among the cliffs; and
surrounded by Moorish battlements; or of ruined watchtowers perched on
lofty peaks; carries the mind back to the chivalric days of
Christian and Moslem warfare; and to the romantic struggle for the
conquest of Granada。 In traversing these lofty sierras the traveller
is often obliged to alight; and lead his horse up and down the steep
and jagged ascents and descents; resembling the broken steps of a
staircase。
Sometimes the road winds along dizzy precipices; without parapet
to guard him from the gulfs below; and then will plunge down steep;
and dark; and dangerous declivities。 Sometimes it struggles through
rugged barrancos; or ravines; worn by winter torrents; the obscure
path of the contrabandista; while; ever and anon; the ominous cross;
the monument of robbery and murder; erected on a mound of stones at
some lonely part of the road; admonishes the traveller that he is
among the haunts of banditti; perhaps at that very moment under the
eye of some lurking bandolero。 Sometimes; in winding through the
narrow valleys; he is startled by a hoarse bellowing; and beholds
above him on some green fold of the mountain a herd of fierce
Andalusian bulls; destined for the combat of the arena。 I have felt;
if I may so express it; an agreeable horror in thus contemplating;
near at hand; these terrific animals; clothed with tremendous
strength; and ranging their native pastures in untamed wildness;
strangers almost to the face of man: they know no one but the solitary
herdsman who attends upon them; and even he at times dares not venture
to approach them。 The low bellowing of these bulls; and their menacing
aspect as they look down from their rocky height; give additional
wildness to the savage scenery。
I have been betrayed unconsciously into a longer disquisition than I
intended on the general features of Spanish travelling; but there is a
romance about all the recollections of the Peninsula dear to the
imagination。
As our proposed route to Granada lay through mountainous regions;
where the roads are little better than mule paths; and said to be
frequently beset by robbers; we took due travelling precautions。
Forwarding the most valuable part of our luggage a day or two in
advance by the arrieros; we retained merely clothing and necessaries
for the journey and money for the expenses of the road; with a
little surplus of hard dollars by way of robber purse; to satisfy
the gentlemen of the road should we be assailed。 Unlucky is the too
wary traveller who; having grudged this precaution; falls into their
clutches empty handed: they are apt to give him a sound ribroasting
for cheating them out of their dues。 〃Caballeros like them cannot
afford to scour the roads and risk the gallows for nothing。〃
A couple of stout steeds were provided for our own mounting; and a
third for our scanty luggage and the conveyance of a sturdy Biscayan
lad; about twenty years of age; who was to be our guide; our groom;
our valet; and at all times our guard。 For the latter office he was
provided with a formidable trabuco or carbine; with which he
promised to defend us against rateros or solitary footpads; but as
to powerful bands; like that of the 〃sons of Ecija;〃 he confessed they
were quite beyond his prowess。 He made much vainglorious boast about
his weapon at the outset of the journey; though; to the discredit of
his generalship; it was suffered to hang unloaded behind his saddle。
According to our stipulations; the man from whom we hired the horses
was to be at the expense of their feed and stabling on the journey; as
well as of the maintenance of our Biscayan squire; who of course was
provided with funds for the purpose; we took care; however; to give
the latter a private hint; that; though we made a close bargain with
his master; it was all in his favor; as; if he proved a good man and
true; both he and the horses should live at our cost; and the money
provided for their maintenance remain in his pocket。 This unexpected
largess; with the occasional present of a cigar; won his heart
completely。 He was; in truth; a faithful; cheery; kind…hearted
creature; as full of saws and proverbs as that miracle of squires; the
renowned Sancho himself; whose name; by the by; we bestowed upon
him; and like a true Spaniard; though treated by us with companionable
familiarity; he never for a moment; in his utmost hilarity;
overstepped the bounds of respectful decorum。
Such were our minor preparations for the journey; but above all we
laid in an ample stock of good humor; and a genuine disposition to
be pleased; determining to travel in true contrabandista style; taking
things as we found them; rough or smooth; and mingling with all
classes and conditions in a kind of vagabond companionship。 It is
the true way to travel in Spain。 With such disposition and
determination; what a country is it for a traveller; where the most
miserable inn is as full of adventure as an enchanted castle; and
every meal is in itself an achievement! Let others repine at the
lack of turnpike roads and sumptuous hotels; and all the elaborate
comforts of a country cultivated and civilized into tameness and
commonplace; but give me the rude mountain scramble; the roving;
haphazard; wayfaring; the half wild; yet frank and hospitable manners;
which impart such a true game flavor to dear old romantic Spain!
Thus equipped and attended; we cantered out of 〃Fair Seville city〃
at half…past six in the morning of a bright May day; in company with a
lady and gentleman of our acquaintance; who rode a few miles with
us; in the Spanish mode of taking leave。 Our route lay through old
Alcala de Guadaira (Alcala on the river Aira); the benefactress of
Seville; that supplies it with bread and water。 Here live the bakers
who furnish Seville with that delicious bread for which it is
renowned; here are fabricated those roscas well known by the
well…merited appellation of pan de Dios (bread of God); with which; by
the way; we ordered our man; Sancho; to stock his alforjas for the
journey。 Well has this beneficent little city been denominated the
〃Oven of Seville〃; well has it been called Alcala de los Panaderos
(Alcala of the bakers); for a great part of its inhabitants are of
that handicraft; and the highway hence to Seville is constantly
traversed by lines of mules and donkeys laden with great panniers of
loaves and roscas。
I have said Alcala supplies Seville with water。 Here are great tanks
or reservoirs; of Roman and Moorish construction; whence water is
conveyed to Seville by noble aqueducts。 The springs of Alcala are
almost as much vaunted as its ovens; and to the lightness;
sweetness; and purity of its water is attributed in some measure the
delicacy of its bread。
Here we halted for a time; at the ruins of the old Moorish castle; a
favorite resort for picnic parties from Seville; where we had passed
many a pleasant hour。 The walls are of great extent; pierced with
loopholes; inclosing a huge square tower or keep; with the remains
of masmoras; or subterranean granaries。 The Guadaira winds its
stream round the hill; at the foot of these ruins; whimpering among
reeds; rushes; and pond…lilies; and overhung with rhododendron;
eglantine; yellow myrtle; and a profusion of wild flowers and aromatic
shrubs; while along its banks are groves of oranges; citrons; and
pomegranates; among which we heard the early note of the nightingale。
A picturesque bridge was thrown across the little river; at one
end of which was the ancient Moorish mill of the castle; defended by a
tower of yellow stone; a fisherman's net hung against the wall to dry;
and hard by in the river was his boat; a group of peasant women in
bright…colored dresses; crossing the arched bridge; were reflected
in the placid stream。 Altogether it was an admirable scene for a
landscape painter。
The old Moorish mills; so often found on secluded streams; are
characteristic objects in Spanish landscape; and suggestive of the
perilous times of old。 They are of stone; and often in the form of
towers with loopholes and battlements; capable of defence in those
warlike days when the country on both sides of the border was
subject to sudden inroad and hasty ravage; and when men had to labor
with their weapons at hand; and some place of temporary refuge。
Our next halting place was at Gandul; where were the remains of
another Moorish castle; with its ruined tower; a nestling place for
storks; and commanding a view over a vast campina or fertile plain;
with the mountains of Ronda in the distance。 These castles were
strong…holds to protect the plains from the talas or forays to which
they were subject; when the fields of corn would be laid waste; the
flocks and herds swept from the vast pastures; and; together with
captive peasantry; hurried off in long cavalgadas across the borders。
At Gandul we found a tolerable posada; the good folks could not tell
us what time of day it was… the clock only struck once in the day; two
hours after noon; until that time it was guesswork。 We guessed it
was full time to eat; so; alighting; we ordered a repast。 While that
was in preparation we visited the palace once the r
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