part01-第4部分

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ease；　and　when　we　took　our　seat　among　them；　lit　our　cigars；　and　passed

the　cigar…box　round　among　them；　our　victory　was　complete。　I　have　never

known　a　Spaniard；　whatever　his　rank　or　condition；　who　would　suffer

himself　to　be　outdone　in　courtesy；　and　to　the　common　Spaniard　the

present　of　a　cigar　（puro）　is　irresistible。　Care；　however；　must　be

taken　never　to　offer　him　a　present　with　an　air　of　superiority　and

condescension；　he　is　too　much　of　a　caballero　to　receive　favors　at

the　cost　of　his　dignity。

　　Leaving　Osuna　at　an　early　hour　the　next　morning；　we　entered　the

sierra　or　range　of　mountains。　The　road　wound　through　picturesque

scenery；　but　lonely；　and　a　cross　here　and　there　by　the　road　side；

the　sign　of　a　murder；　showed　that　we　were　now　coming　among　the　〃robber

haunts。〃　This　wild　and　intricate　country；　with　its　silent　plains　and

valleys　intersected　by　mountains；　has　ever　been　famous　for　banditti。

It　was　here　that　Omar　Ibn　Hassan；　a　robber…chief　among　the　Moslems；

held　ruthless　sway　in　the　ninth　century；　disputing　dominion　even

with　the　caliphs　of　Cordova。　This　too　was　a　part　of　the　regions　so

often　ravaged　during　the　reign　of　Ferdinand　and　Isabella　by　Ali

Atar；　the　old　Moorish　alcayde　of　Loxa；　father…in…law　of　Boabdil；　so

that　it　was　called　Ali　Atar's　garden；　and　here　〃Jose　Maria；〃　famous　in

Spanish　brigand　story；　had　his　favorite　lurking　places。

　　In　the　course　of　the　day　we　passed　through　Fuente　la　Piedra　near　a

little　salt　lake　of　the　same　name；　a　beautiful　sheet　of　water；

reflecting　like　a　mirror　the　distant　mountains。　We　now　came　in　sight

of　Antiquera；　that　old　city　of　warlike　reputation；　lying　in　the　lap　of

the　great　sierra　which　runs　through　Andalusia。　A　noble　vega　spread　out

before　it；　a　picture　of　mild　fertility　set　in　a　frame　of　rocky

mountains。　Crossing　a　gentle　river　we　approached　the　city　between

hedges　and　gardens；　in　which　nightingales　were　pouring　forth　their

evening　song。　About　nightfall　we　arrived　at　the　gates。　Every　thing

in　this　venerable　city　has　a　decidedly　Spanish　stamp。　It　lies　too　much

out　of　the　frequented　track　of　foreign　travel　to　have　its　old　usages

trampled　out。　Here　I　observed　old　men　still　wearing　the　montero；　or

ancient　hunting　cap；　once　common　throughout　Spain；　while　the　young　men

wore　the　little　round…crowned　hat；　with　brim　turned　up　all　round；　like

a　cup　turned　down　in　its　saucer；　while　the　brim　was　set　off　with

little　black　tufts　like　cockades。　The　women；　too；　were　all　in

mantillas　and　basquinas。　The　fashions　of　Paris　had　not　reached

Antiquera。

　　Pursuing　our　course　through　a　spacious　street；　we　put　up　at　the

posada　of　San　Fernando。　As　Antiquera；　though　a　considerable　city；

is；　as　I　observed；　somewhat　out　of　the　track　of　travel；　I　had

anticipated　bad　quarters　and　poor　fare　at　the　inn。　I　was　agreeably

disappointed；　therefore；　by　a　supper　table　amply　supplied；　and　what

were　still　more　acceptable；　good　clean　rooms　and　comfortable　beds。　Our

man；　Sancho；　felt　himself　as　well　off　as　his　namesake；　when　he　had　the

run　of　the　duke's　kitchen；　and　let　me　know；　as　I　retired　for　the

night；　that　it　had　been　a　proud　time　for　the　alforjas。

　　Early　in　the　morning　（May　4th）　I　strolled　to　the　ruins　of　the　old

Moorish　castle；　which　itself　had　been　reared　on　the　ruins　of　a　Roman

fortress。　Here；　taking　my　seat　on　the　remains　of　a　crumbling　tower；

I　enjoyed　a　grand　and　varied　landscape；　beautiful　in　itself；　and

full　of　storied　and　romantic　associations；　for　I　was　now　in　the　very

heart　of　the　country　famous　for　the　chivalrous　contests　between　Moor

and　Christian。　Below　me；　in　its　lap　of　hills；　lay　the　old　warrior　city

so　often　mentioned　in　chronicle　and　ballad。　Out　of　yon　gate　and　down

yon　hill　paraded　the　band　of　Spanish　cavaliers；　of　highest　rank　and

bravest　bearing；　to　make　that　foray　during　the　war　and　conquest　of

Granada；　which　ended　in　the　lamentable　massacre　among　the　mountains　of

Malaga；　and　laid　all　Andalusia　in　mourning。　Beyond　spread　out　the

vega；　covered　with　gardens　and　orchards　and　fields　of　grain　and

enamelled　meadows；　inferior　only　to　the　famous　vega　of　Granada。　To　the

right　the　Rock　of　the　Lovers　stretched　like　a　cragged　promontory

into　the　plain；　whence　the　daughter　of　the　Moorish　alcayde　and　her

lover；　when　closely　pursued；　threw　themselves　in　despair。

　　The　matin　peal　from　church　and　convent　below　me　rang　sweetly　in

the　morning　air；　as　I　descended。　The　market…place　was　beginning　to

throng　with　the　populace；　who　traffic　in　the　abundant　produce　of　the

vega；　for　this　is　the　mart　of　an　agricultural　region。　In　the

market…place　were　abundance　of　freshly　plucked　roses　for　sale；　for　not

a　dame　or　damsel　of　Andalusia　thinks　her　gala　dress　complete　without　a

rose　shining　like　a　gem　among　her　raven　tresses。

　　On　returning　to　the　inn　I　found　our　man　Sancho；　in　high　gossip

with　the　landlord　and　two　or　three　of　his　hangers…on。　He　had　just　been

telling　some　marvellous　story　about　Seville；　which　mine　host　seemed

piqued　to　match　with　one　equally　marvellous　about　Antiquera。　There　was

once　a　fountain；　he　said；　in　one　of　the　public　squares　called　IL

fuente　del　toro；　the　fountain　of　the　bull；　because　the　water　gushed

from　the　mouth　of　a　bull's　head；　carved　of　stone。　Underneath　the

head　was　inscribed：



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　EN　FRENTE　DEL　TORO

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　SE　HALLEN　TESORO。



（In　front　of　the　bull　there　is　treasure。）　Many　digged　in　front　of

the　fountain；　but　lost　their　labor　and　found　no　money。　At　last　one

knowing　fellow　construed　the　motto　a　different　way。　It　is　in　the

forehead　（frente）　of　the　bull　that　the　treasure　is　to　be　found；　said

he　to　himself；　and　I　am　the　man　to　find　it。　Accordingly　he　came　late

at　night；　with　a　mallet；　and　knocked　the　head　to　pieces；　and　what　do

you　think　he　found？

　　〃Plenty　of　gold　and　diamonds！〃　cried　Sancho　eagerly。

　　〃He　found　nothing；〃　rejoined　mine　host　dryly；　〃and　he　ruined　the

fountain。〃

　　Here　a　great　laugh　was　set　up　by　the　landlord's　hangers…on；　who

considered　Sancho　completely　taken　in　by　what　I　presume　was　one　of

mine　host's　standing　jokes。

　　Leaving　Antiquera　at　eight　O'clock；　we　had　a　delightful　ride　along

the　little　river；　and　by　gardens　and　orchards；　fragrant　with　the　odors

of　spring　and　vocal　with　the　nightingale。　Our　road　passed　round　the

Rock　of　the　Lovers　（el　Penon　de　los　Enamorados）；　which　rose　in　a

precipice　above　us。　In　the　course　of　the　morning　we　passed　through

Archidona；　situated　in　the　breast　of　a　high　hill；　with　a　three…pointed

mountain　towering　above　it；　and　the　ruins　of　a　Moorish　fortress。　It

was　a　great　toil　to　ascend　a　steep　stony　street　leading　up　into　the

city；　although　it　bore　the　encouraging　name　of　Calle　Real　del　Llano

（the　Royal　Street　of　the　Plain）；　but　it　was　still　a　greater　toil　to

descend　from　this　mountain　city　on　the　other　side。

　　At　noon　we　halted　in　sight　of　Archidona；　in　a　pleasant　little　meadow

among　hills　covered　with　olive…trees。　Our　cloaks　were　spread　on　the

grass；　under　an　elm　by　the　side　of　a　bubbling　rivulet；　our　horses　were

tethered　where　they　might　crop　the　herbage；　and　Sancho　was　told　to

produce　his　alforjas。　He　had　been　unusually　silent　this　morning　ever

since　the　laugh　raised　at　his　expense；　but　now　his　countenance

brightened；　and　he　produced　his　alforjas　with　an　air　of　triumph。

They　contained　the　contributions　of　four　days'　journeying；　but　had

been　signally　enriched　by　the　foraging　of　the　previous　evening　in

the　plenteous　inn　at　Antiquera；　and　this　seemed　to　furnish　him　with

a　set…off　to　the　banter　of　mine　host。



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　EN　FRENTE　DEL　TORO

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　SE　HALLEN　TESORO



would　he　exclaim；　with　a　chuckling　laugh；　as　he　drew　forth　the

heterogeneous　contents　one　by　one；　in　a　series　which　seemed　to　have　no

end。　First　came　forth　a　shoulder　of　roasted　kid；　very　little　the　worse

for　wear；　then　an　entire　partridge；　then　a　great　morsel　of　salted

codfish　wrapped　in　paper；　then　the　residue　of　a　ham；　then　the　half

of　a　pullet；　together　with　several　rolls　of　bread；　and　a　rabble　rout

of　oranges；　figs；　raisins；　and　walnuts。　His　bota　also　had　been

recruited　with　some　excellent　wine　of　Malaga。　At　every　fresh

apparition　from　his　larder；　he　would　enjoy　our　ludicrous　surprise；

throwing　himself　back　on　the　grass；　shouting　with　laughter；　and

exclaiming　〃Frente　del　toro！…　frente　del　toro！　Ah；　senores；　they

thought　Sancho　a　simpleton　at　Antiquera；　but　Sancho　knew　where　to　find

the　tesoro。〃

　　While　we　were　diverting　ourselves　with　his　simple　drollery；　a

solitary　beggar　approached；　who　had　almost　the　look　of　a　pilgrim。　He

had　a　venerable　gray　beard；　and　was　evidently　very　old；　supporting

himself　on　a　staff；　yet　age　had　not　bowed　him　down；　he　was　tall　and

erect；　and　had　the　wreck　of　a　fine　form。　He　wore　a　round　Andalusian

hat；　a　sheep…skin　jacket；　and　leathern　breeches；　gaiters；　and　sandals。

His　dress；　though　old　and　patched；　was　decent；　his　demeanor　manly；　and

he　addressed　us　with　the　grave　courtesy　that　is　to　be　remarked　in

the　lowest　Spaniard。　We　were　in　a　favorable　mood　for　such　a　visitor；

and　in　a　freak　of　capricious　charity　gave　him　some　silver；　a　loaf　of

fine　wheaten　bread；　and　a　goblet　of　our　choice　wine　of　Malaga。　He

received　them　thankfully；　but　without　any　grovelling　tribute　of

gratitude。　Tasting　the　wine；　he　held　it　up　to　the　light；　with　a　slight

beam　of　surprise　in　his　eye；　then　quaffing　it　off　at　a　draught；　〃It　is

many　years；〃　said　he；　〃since　I　have　tasted　such　wine。　It　is　a

cordial　to　an　old　man's　heart。〃　Then；　looking　at　the　beautiful　wheaten

loaf；　〃Bendito　sea　tal　pan！〃　〃Blessed　be　such　bread！〃　So　saying；　he

put　it　in　his　wallet。　We　urged　him　to　eat　it　on　the　spot。　〃No；

senores；〃　replied　he；　〃the　wine　I　had　either　to　drink　or　leave；　but

the　bread　I　may　take　home　to　share　with　my　family。〃

　　Our　man　Sancho　sought　our　eye；　and　reading　permission　there；　gave

the　old　man　some　of　the　ample　fragments　of　our　repast；　on　condition；

however；　that　he　should　sit　down　and　make　a　me