an old town by the sea-第3部分

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e　unknown；　gentle　and　simple；　mingle　their　dust　on　a　perfect　equality　now。　　The　marble　that　once　bore　a　haughty　coat　of　arms　is　as　smooth　as　the　humblest　slate　stone　guiltless　of　heraldry。　　The　lion　and　the　unicorn；　wherever　they　appear　on　some　cracked　slab；　are　very　much　tamed　by　time。　　The　once　fat…faced　cherubs；　with　wing　at　either　cheek；　are　the　merest　skeletons　now。　　Pride；　pomp；　grief；　and　remembrance　are　all　at　end。　　No　reverent　feet　come　here；　no　tears　fall　here；　the　old　graveyard　itself　is　dead！　A　more　dismal；　uncanny　spot　than　this　at　twilight　would　be　hard　to　find。　It　is　noticed　that　when　the　boys　pass　it　after　nightfall；　they　always　go　by　whistling　with　a　gayety　that　is　perfectly　hollow。

Let　us　get　into　some　cheerfuler　neighborhood！

III。　A　STROLL　ABOUT　TOWN

AS　you　leave　the　river　front　behind　you；　and　pass　〃up　town；〃　the　streets　grow　wider；　and　the　architecture　becomes　more　ambitiousstreets　fringed　with　beautiful　old　trees　and　lined　with　commodious　private　dwellings；　mostly　square　white　houses；　with　spacious　halls　running　through　the　centre。　Previous　to　the　Revolution；　white　paint　was　seldom　used　on　houses；　and　the　diamond…shaped　window　pane　was　almost　universal。　Many　of　the　residences　stand　back　from　the　brick　or　flagstone　sidewalk；　and　have　pretty　gardens　at　the　side　or　in　the　rear；　made　bright　with　dahlias　and　sweet　with　cinnamon　roses。　If　you　chance　to　live　in　a　town　where　the　authorities　cannot　rest　until　they　have　destroyed　every　precious　tree　within　their　blighting　reach；　you　will　be　especially　charmed　by　the　beauty　of　the　streets　of　Portsmouth。　In　some　parts　of　the　town；　when　the　chestnuts　are　in　blossom；　you　would　fancy　yourself　in　a　garden　in　fairyland。　　In　spring；　summer；　and　autumn　the　foliage　is　the　glory　of　the　fair　townher　luxuriant　green　and　golden　treeses！　Nothing　could　seem　more　like　the　work　of　enchantment　than　the　spectacle　which　certain　streets　in　Portsmouth　present　in　the　midwinter　after　a　heavy　snowstorm。　You　may　walk　for　miles　under　wonderful　silvery　arches　formed　by　the　overhanging　and　interlaced　boughs　of　the　trees；　festooned　with　a　drapery　even　more　graceful　and　dazzling　than　springtime　gives　them。　　The　numerous　elms　and　maples　which　shade　the　principal　thoroughfares　are　not　the　result　of　chance；　but　the　ample　reward　of　the　loving　care　that　is　taken　to　preserve　the　trees。　　There　is　a　society　in　Portsmouth　devoted　to　arboriculture。　It　is　not　unusual　there　for　persons　to　leave　legacies　to　be　expended　in　setting　out　shade　and　ornamental　trees　along　some　favorite　walk。　　Richards　Avenue；　a　long；　unbuilt　thoroughfare　leading　from　Middle　Street　to　the　South　Burying…Ground；　perpetuates　the　name　of　a　citizen　who　gave　the　labor　of　his　own　hands　to　the　beautifying　of　that　windswept　and　barren　road　the　cemetery。　This　fondness　and　care　for　trees　seems　to　be　a　matter　of　heredity。　　So　far　back　as　1660　the　selectmen　instituted　a　fine　of　five　shillings　for　the　cutting　of　timber　or　any　other　wood　from　off　the　town　common；　excepting　under　special　conditions。

In　the　business　section　of　the　town　trees　are　few。　　The　chief　business　streets　are　Congress　and　Market。　　Market　Street　is　the　stronghold　of　the　dry…goods　shops。　　There　are　seasons；　I　suppose；　when　these　shops　are　crowded；　but　I　have　never　happened　to　be　in　Portsmouth　at　the　time。　　I　seldom　pass　through　the　narrow　cobble…paved　street　without　wondering　where　the　customers　are　that　must　keep　all　these　flourishing　little　establishments　going。　Congress　Streeta　more　elegant　thoroughfare　than　Marketis　the　Nevski　Prospekt　of　Portsmouth。　　Among　the　prominent　buildings　is　the　Athenaeum；　containing　a　reading…room　and　library。　　From　the　high　roof　of　this　building　the　stroller　will　do　well　to　take　a　glance　at　the　surrounding　country。　　He　will　naturally　turn　seaward　for　the　more　picturesque　aspects。　If　the　day　is　clear；　he　will　see　the　famous　Isle　of　Shoals；　lying　nine　miles　awayAppledore；　Smutty…Nose；　Star　Island；　White　Island；　etc。；　there　are　nine　of　them　in　all。　　On　Appledore　is　Laighton's　Hotel；　and　near　it　the　summer　cottage　of　Celia　Thaxter；　the　poet　of　the　Isles。　　On　the　northern　end　of　Star　Island　is　the　quaint　town　of　Gosport；　with　a　tiny　stone　church　perched　like　a　sea…gull　on　its　highest　rock。　　A　mile　southwest　form　Star　Island　lies　White　Island；　on　which　is　a　lighthouse。　Mrs。　Thaxter　calls　this　the　most　picturesque　of　the　group。　　Perilous　neighbors；　O　mariner！　in　any　but　the　serenest　weather；　these　wrinkled；　scarred；　are　storm…smitten　rocks；　flanked　by　wicked　sunken　ledges　that　grow　white　at　the　lip　with　rage　when　the　great　winds　blow！

How　peaceful　it　all　looks　off　there；　on　the　smooth　emerald　sea！　and　how　softly　the　waves　seem　to　break　on　yonder　point　where　the　unfinished　fort　is！　　That　is　the　ancient　town　of　Newcastle；　to　reach　which　from　Portsmouth　you　have　to　cross　three　bridges　with　the　most　enchanting　scenery　in　New　Hampshire　lying　on　either　hand。　　At　Newcastle　the　poet　Stedman　has　built　for　his　summerings　an　enviable　little　stone　chateaua　seashell　into　which　I　fancy　the　sirens　creep　to　warm　themselves　during　the　winter　months。　　So　it　is　never　without　its　singer。

Opposite　Newcastle　is　Kittery　Point；　a　romantic　spot；　where　Sir　William　Pepperell；　the　first　American　baronet；　once　lived；　and　where　his　tomb　now　is；　in　his　orchard　across　the　road；　a　few　hundred　yards　from　the　〃goodly　mansion〃　he　built。　The　knight's　tomb　and　the　old　Pepperell　House；　which　has　been　somewhat　curtailed　of　it　fair　proportions；　are　the　objects　of　frequent　pilgrimages　to　Kittery　Point。

From　the　elevation　（the　roof　of　the　Athenaeun）　the　navy　yard；　the　river　with　its　bridges　and　islands；　the　clustered　gables　of　Kittery　and　Newcastle；　the　illimitable　ocean　beyond　make　a　picture　worth　climbing　four　or　five　flights　of　stairs　to　gaze　upon。　Glancing　down　on　the　town　nestled　in　the　foliage；　it　seems　like　a　town　dropped　by　chance　in　the　midst　of　a　forest。　Among　the　prominent　objects　which　lift　themselves　above　the　tree　tops　are　the　belfries　of　the　various　churches；　the　white　fa鏰de　of　the　custom　house；　and　the　mansard　and　chimneys　of　the　Rockingham；　the　principal　hotel。　The　pilgrim　will　be　surprised　to　find　in　Portsmouth　one　of　the　most　completely　appointed　hotels　in　the　United　States。　　The　antiquarian　may　lament　the　demolition　of　the　old　Bell　Tavern；　and　think　regretfully　of　the　good　cheer　once　furnished　the　wayfarer　by　Master　Stavers　at　the　sign　of　the　Earl　of　Halifax；　and　by　Master　Stoodley　at　his　inn　on　Daniel　Street；　but　the　ordinary　traveler　will　thank　his　stars；　and　confess　that　his　lines　have　fallen　in　pleasant　places；　when　he　finds　himself　among　the　frescoes　of　the　Rockingham。

Obliquely　opposite　the　doorstep　of　the　Athenaeumwe　are　supposed　to　be　on　terra　firma　againstands　the　Old　North　Church；　a　substantial　wooden　building；　handsomely　set　on　what　is　called　The　Parade；　a　large　open　space　formed　by　the　junction　of　Congress；　Market；　Daniel；　and　Pleasant　streets。　Here　in　days　innocent　of　water…works　stood　the　town　pump；　which　on　more　than　one　occasion　served　as　whipping…post。

The　churches　of　Portsmouth　are　more　remarkable　for　their　number　than　their　architecture。　With　the　exception　of　the　Stone　Church　they　are　constructed　of　wood　or　plain　brick　in　the　simplest　style。　　St。　John's　Church　is　the　only　one　likely　to　attract　the　eye　of　a　stranger。　　It　is　finely　situated　on　the　crest　of　Church　Hill；　overlooking　the　ever…beautiful　river。　　The　present　edifice　was　built　in　1808　on　the　site　of　what　was　known　as　Queen's　Chapel；　erected　in　1732；　and　destroyed　by　fire　December　24；　1806。　The　chapel　was　named　in　honor　of　Queen　Caroline；　who　furnished　the　books　for　the　altar　and　pulpit；　the　plate；　and　two　solid　mahogany　chairs；　which　are　still　in　use　in　St。　John's。　　Within　the　chancel　rail　is　a　curious　font　of　porphyry；　taken　by　Colonel　John　Tufton　Mason　at　the　capture　of　Senegal　from　the　French　in　1758；　and　presented　to　the　Episcopal　Society　on　1761。　The　peculiarly　sweet…toned　bell　which　calls　the　parishioners　of　St。　John's　together　every　Sabbath　is；　I　believe；　the　same　that　formerly　hung　in　the　belfry　of　the　old　Queen's　Chapel。　If　so；　the　bell　has　a　history　of　its　own。　It　was　brought　from　Louisburg　at　the　time　of　the　reduction　of　that　place　in　1745；　and　given　to　the　church　by　the　officers　of　the　New　Hampshire　troops。

The　Old　South　Meeting…House　is　not　to　be　passed　without　mention。　It　is　among　the　most　aged　survivals　of　pre…revolutionary　days。　Neither　its　architecture　not　its　age；　however；　is　its　chief　warrant　for　our　notice。　　The　absurd　number　of　windows　in　this　battered　old　structure　is　what　strikes　the　passer…by。　The　church　was　erected　by　subscription；　and　these　closely　set　large　windows　are　due　to　Henry　Sherburne；　one　of　the　wealthiest　citizens　of　the　period；　who　agreed　to　pay　for　whatever　glass　was　used。　　If　the　building　could　have　been　composed　entirely　of　glass　it　would　have　been　done　by　the　thrifty　parishioners。

Portsmouth　is　rich　in　graveyardsthey　seem　to　be　a　New　England　specialtyancient　and　modern。　　Among　the　old　burial…places　the　one　attached　to　St。　John's　Church　is　perhaps　the　most　interesting。　　It　has　not　been　permitted　to　fall　into　ruin；　like　the　old　cemetery　at　the　Point　of　Graves。　　When　a　headstone　here　topples　over　it　is　kindly　lifted　up　and　set　on　its　pins　again；　and　encouraged　to　do　its　duty。　If　it　utterly　refuses；　and　is　not　shamming　decrepitude；　it　has　its　face　sponged；　and　is　allowed　to　rest　and　sun　itself　against　the　wall　of　the　church　with　a　row　of　other　exempts。　The　trees　are　kept　pruned；　the　grass　trimmed；　and　here　and　there　is　a　rosebush　drooping　with　a　weight　of　pensive　pale　roses；　as　becomes　a　rosebush　in　a　churchyard。

The　place　has　about　it　an　indescribable　soothing　atmosphere　of　respectability　and　comfort。　Here　rest　the　remains　of　the　principal　and　loftiest　in　rank　in　their　generation　of　the　citizens　of　Portsmouth　prior　to　the　Revolutionstanch；　royalty…loving　governors；　counselors；　and　secretaries　of　the　Providence　of　New　Hampshire；　all　snugly　gathered　under　the　motherly　wing　of　the　Church　of　England。　　It　is　almost　impossible　to　walk　anywhere　without　stepping　on　a　governor。　You　grow　haughty　in　spirit　after　a　while；　and　scorn　to　tread　on　anything　less　than　one　of　His　Majesty's　colonels　or　secretary　under　the　Crown。　Here　are　the　tombs　of　the　Atkinso