a ride across palestine-第5部分

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the　water　ran　so　rapidly；　and　that　the　bushes　and　boughs　of　trees
grew　so　far　over　and　into　the　stream；　as　to　make　it　impossible　for
me　to　bathe。　　I　could　not　have　got　in　without　my　clothes；　and　having
got　in；　I　could　not　have　got　out　again。　　I　was；　therefore　obliged　to
put　up　with　the　open　muddy　shore　to　which　the　bathers　descend；　and
at　which　we　may　presume　that　Joshua　passed　when　he　came　over　as　one
of　the　twelve　spies　to　spy　out　the　land。　　And　even　here　I　could　not
go　full　into　the　stream　as　I　would　fain　have　done；　lest　I　should　be
carried　down；　and　so　have　assisted　to　whiten　the　shores　of　the　Dead
Sea　with　my　bones。　　As　to　getting　over　to　the　Moabitish　side　of　the
river；　that　was　plainly　impossible；　and；　indeed；　it　seemed　to　be　the
prevailing　opinion　that　the　passage　of　the　river　was　not　practicable
without　going　up　as　far　as　Samaria。　　And　yet　we　know　that　there；　or
thereabouts；　the　Israelites　did　cross　it。

I　jumped　from　my　horse　the　moment　I　got　to　the　place；　and　once　more
gave　my　purse　and　pistols　to　my　friend。　　〃You　are　going　to　bathe
again？〃　he　said。　　〃Certainly；〃　said　I；　〃you　don't　suppose　that　I
would　come　to　Jordan　and　not　wash　there；　even　if　I　were　not　foul
with　the　foulness　of　the　Dead　Sea！〃　　〃You'll　kill　yourself；　in　your
present　state　of　heat；〃　he　said；　remonstrating　just　as　one's　mother
or　wife　might　do。　　But　even　had　it　been　my　mother　or　wife　I　could
not　have　attended　to　such　remonstrance　then；　and　before　he　had　done
looking　at　me　with　those　big　eyes　of　his；　my　coat　and　waistcoat　and
cravat　were　on　the　ground；　and　I　was　at　work　at　my　braces；　whereupon
he　turned　from　me　slowly；　and　strolled　away　into　the　wood。　　On　this
occasion　I　had　no　base　fears　about　my　money。

And　then　I　did　bathe；very　uncomfortably。　　The　shore　was　muddy　with
the　feet　of　the　pilgrims；　and　the　river　so　rapid　that　I　hardly　dared
to　get　beyond　the　mud。　　I　did　manage　to　take　a　plunge　in；　head…
foremost；　but　I　was　forced　to　wade　out　through　the　dirt　and　slush；
so　that　I　found　it　difficult　to　make　my　feet　and　legs　clean　enough
for　my　shoes　and　stockings；　and　then；　moreover；　the　flies　plagued　me
most　unmercifully。　　I　should　have　thought　that　the　filthy　flavour
from　the　Dead　Sea　would　have　saved　me　from　that　nuisance；　but　the
mosquitoes　thereabouts　are　probably　used　to　it。　　Finding　this
process　of　bathing　to　be　so　difficult；　I　inquired　as　to　the　practice
of　the　pilgrims。　　I　found　that　with　them；　bathing　in　Jordan　has　come
to　be　much　the　same　as　baptism　has　with　us。　　It　does　not　mean
immersion。　　No　doubt　they　do　take　off　their　shoes　and　stockings；　but
they　do　not　strip；　and　go　bodily　into　the　water。

As　soon　as　I　was　dressed　I　found　that　Smith　was　again　at　my　side
with　purse　and　pistols。　　We　then　went　up　a　little　above　the　wood；
and　sat　down　together　on　the　long　sandy　grass。　　It　was　now　quite
evening；　so　that　the　short　Syrian　twilight　had　commenced；　and　the
sun　was　no　longer　hot　in　the　heavens。　　It　would　be　night　as　we　rode
on　to　the　tents　at　Jericho；　but　there　was　no　difficulty　as　to　the
way；　and　therefore　we　did　not　hurry　the　horses；　who　were　feeding　on
the　grass。　　We　sat　down　together　on　a　spot　from　which　we　could　see
the　stream；close　together；　so　that　when　I　stretched　myself　out　in
my　weariness；　as　I　did　before　we　started；　my　head　rested　on　his
legs。　　Ah；　me！　one　does　not　take　such　liberties　with　new　friends　in
England。　　It　was　a　place　which　led　one　on　to　some　special　thoughts。
The　mountains　of　Moab　were　before　us；　very　plain　in　their　outline。

〃Moab　is　my　wash…pot；　and　over　Edom　will　I　cast　out　my　shoe！〃　　There
they　were　before　us；　very　visible　to　the　eye；　and　we　began　naturally
to　ask　questions　of　each　other。　　Why　was　Moab　the　wash…pot；　and　Edom
thus　cursed　with　indignity？　　Why　had　the　right　bank　of　the　river
been　selected　for　such　great　purposes；　whereas　the　left　was　thus
condemned？　　Was　there；　at　that　time；　any　special　fertility　in　this
land　of　promise　which　has　since　departed　from　it？　　We　are　told　of　a
bunch　of　grapes　which　took　two　men　to　carry　it；　but　now　there　is　not
a　vine　in　the　whole　country　side。　　Now…a…days　the　sandy　plain　round
Jericho　is　as　dry　and　arid　as　are　any　of　the　valleys　of　Moab。　　The
Jordan　was　running　beneath　our　feet；the　Jordan　in　which　the
leprous　king　had　washed；　though　the　bright　rivers　of　his　own
Damascus　were　so　much　nearer　to　his　hand。　　It　was　but　a　humble
stream　to　which　he　was　sent；　but　the　spot　probably　was　higher　up；
above　the　Sea　of　Galilee；　where　the　river　is　narrow。　　But　another
also　had　come　down　to　this　river；　perhaps　to　this　very　spot　on　its
shores；　and　submitted　Himself　to　its　waters；as　to　whom；　perhaps；
it　will　be　better　that　I　should　not　speak　much　in　this　light　story。

The　Dead　Sea　was　on　our　right；　still　glittering　in　the　distance；　and
behind　us　lay　the　plains　of　Jericho　and　the　wretched　collection　of
huts　which　still　bears　the　name　of　the　ancient　city。　　Beyond　that；
but　still　seemingly　within　easy　distance　of　us；　were　the　mountains
of　the　wilderness。　　The　wilderness！　　In　truth；　the　spot　was　one
which　did　lead　to　many　thoughts。

We　talked　of　these　things；　as　to　many　of　which　I　found　that　my
friend　was　much　more　free　in　his　doubts　and　questionings　than
myself；　and　then　our　words　came　back　to　ourselves；　the　natural
centre　of　all　men's…thoughts　and　words。　　〃From　what　you　say；〃　I
said；　〃I　gather　that　you　have　had　enough　of　this　land？〃

〃Quite　enough；〃　he　said。　　〃Why　seek　such　spots　as　these；　if　they
only　dispel　the　associations　and　veneration　of　one's　childhood？〃

〃But　with　me　such　associations　and　veneration　are　riveted　the
stronger　by　seeing　the　places；　and　putting　my　hand　upon　the　spots。
I　do　not　speak　of　that　fictitious　marble　slab　up　there；　but　here；
among　the　sandhills　by　this　river；　and　at　the　Mount　of　Olives　over
which　we　passed；　I　do　believe。〃

He　paused　a　moment；　and　then　replied：　　〃To　me　it　is　all　nothing；
absolutely　nothing。　　But　then　do　we　not　know　that　our　thoughts　are
formed；　and　our　beliefs　modelled；　not　on　the　outward　signs　or
intrinsic　evidences　of　things；as　would　be　the　case　were　we　always
rational；but　by　the　inner　workings　of　the　mind　itself？　　At　the
present　turn　of　my　life　I　can　believe　in　nothing　that　is　gracious。〃

〃Ah；　you　mean　that　you　are　unhappy。　　You　have　come　to　grief　in　some
of　your　doings　or　belongings；　and　therefore　find　that　all　things　are
bitter　to　the　taste。　　I　have　had　my　palate　out　of　order　too；　but　the
proper　appreciation　of　flavours　has　come　back　to　me。　　Bah；how
noisome　was　that　Dead　Sea　water！〃

〃The　Dead　Sea　waters　are　noisome；〃　he　said；　〃and　I　have　been
drinking　of　them　by　long　draughts。〃

〃Long　draughts！〃　I　answered；　thinking　to　console　him。　　〃Draughts
have　not　been　long　which　can　have　been　swallowed　in　your　years。
Your　disease　may　be　acute；　but　it　cannot　yet　have　become　chronic。　　A
man　always　thinks　at　the　moment　of　each　misfortune　that　that　special
misery　will　last　his　lifetime；　but　God　is　too　good　for　that。　　I　do
not　know　what　ails　you；　but　this　day　twelvemonth　will　see　you　again
as　sound　as　a　roach。〃

We　then　sat　silent　for　a　while；　during　which　I　was　puffing　at　a
cigar。　　Smith；　among　his　accomplishments；　did　not　reckon　that　of
smoking；which　was　a　grief　to　me；　for　a　man　enjoys　the　tobacco
doubly　when　another　is　enjoying　it　with　him。

〃No；　you　do　not　know　what　ails　me；〃　he　said　at　last；　〃and；
therefore；　cannot　judge。〃

〃Perhaps　not；　my　dear　fellow。　　But　my　experience　tells　me　that　early
wounds　are　generally　capable　of　cure；　and；　therefore；　I　surmise　that
yours　may　be　so。　　The　heart　at　your　time　of　life　is　not　worn　out；
and　has　strength　and　soundness　left　wherewith　to　throw　off　its
maladies。　　I　hope　it　may　be　so　with　you。〃

〃God　knows。　　　I　do　not　mean　to　say　that　there　are　none　more　to　be
pitied　than　I　am；　but　at　the　present　moment；　I　am　notnot　light…
hearted。〃

〃I　wish　I　could　ease　your　burden；　my　dear　fellow。〃

〃It　is　most　preposterous　in　me　thus　to　force　myself　upon　you；　and
then　trouble　you　with　my　cares。　　But　I　had　been　alone　so　long；　and　I
was　so　weary　of　it！〃

〃By　Jove；　and　so　had　I。　　Make　no　apology。　　And　let　me　tell　you
this；though　perhaps　you　will　not　credit　me；that　I　would　sooner
laugh　with　a　comrade　than　cry　with　him　is　true　enough；　but；　if
occasion　demands；　I　can　do　the　latter　also。〃

He　then　put　out　his　hand　to　me；　and　I　pressed　it　in　token　of　my
friendship。　　My　own　hand　was　hot　and　rough　with　the　heat　and　sand；
but　his　was　soft　and　cool　almost　as　a　woman's。　　I　thoroughly　hate　an
effeminate　man；　but；　in　spite　of　a　certain　womanly　softness　about
this　fellow；　I　could　not　hate　him。　　〃Yes；〃　I　continued；　〃though
somewhat　unused　to　the　melting　mood；　I　also　sometimes　give　forth　my
medicinal　gums。　　I　don't　want　to　ask　you　any　questions；　and；　as　a
rule；　I　hate　to　be　told　secrets；　but　if　I　can　be　of　any　service　to
you　in　any　matter　I　will　do　my　best。　　I　don't　say　this　with
reference　to　the　present　moment；　but　think　of　it　before　we　part。〃

I　looked　round　at　him　and　saw　that　he　was　in　tears。　　〃I　know　that
you　will　think　that　I　am　a　weak　fool；〃　he　said；　pressing　his
handkerchief　to　his　eyes。

〃By　no　means。　　There　are　moments　in　a　man's　life　when　it　becomes　him
to　weep　like　a　woman；　but　the　older　he　grows　the　more　seldom　those
moments　come　to　him。　　As　far　as　I　can　see　of　men；　they　never　cry　at
that　which　disgraces　them。〃

〃It　is　left　for　women　to　do　that；〃　he　answered。

〃Oh；　women！　　A　woman　cries　for　everything　and　for　nothing。　　It　is
the　sharpest　arrow　she　has　in　her　quiver；the　best　card　in　her
hand。　　When　a　woman　cries；　what　can　you　do　but　give　her　all　she　asks
for？〃

〃Do　youdislike　women？〃

〃No；　by　Jove！　　I　am　never　really　happy　unless　one　is　near　me；　or
more　than　one。　　A　man；　as　a　rule；　has　an　amount　of　energy　within　him
which　he　cannot　turn　to　profit　on　himself　alone。　　It　is　good　for　him
to　have　a　woman　by　him　that　he　may　work　for　her；　and　thus　have
exercise　for　his　limbs　and　faculties。　　I　am　very　fond　of　women。　　But
I　always　like　those　best　who　are　most　helpless。〃

We　were　silent　again　for　a　while；　and　it　was　during　this　time　that　I
found　myself　lying　with　my　head　in　his　lap。　　I　had　slept；　but　it
could　have　been　but　for　a　few　minutes；　and　when　I　woke　I　found　his
hand　upon　my　brow。