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john bull on the guadalquivir-第4部分

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manage the settlement that there should be no doubt left as to my
intentions and my own ideas。  I would not be guilty of shilly…shally
conduct; I would tell her frankly what I felt and what I thought; and
would make her understand that I did not desire her hand if I could
not have her heart。  I did not value the kindness of her manner;
seeing that that kindness sprung from indifference rather than
passion; and so I would declare to her。  And I would ask her; also;
who was this young man with whom she was intimatefor whom all her
volubility and energy of tone seemed to be employed?  She had told me
once that it behoved her to consult a friend in Seville as to the
expediency of her marriage with me。  Was this the friend whom she had
wished to consult?  If so; she need not trouble herself。  Under such
circumstances I should decline the connection!  And I resolved that I
would find out how this might be。  A man who proposes to take a woman
to his bosom as his wife; has a right to ask for informationay; and
to receive it too。  It flashed upon my mind at this moment that Donna
Maria was well enough inclined to come to me as my wife; but 。  I
could hardly define the 〃buts〃 to myself; for there were three or
four of them。  Why did she always speak to me in a tone of childish
affection; as though I were a schoolboy home for the holidays?  I
would have all this out with her on the tower on the following
morning; standing under the Giralda。

On that morning we met together in the patio; soon after five
o'clock; and started for the cathedral。  She looked beautiful; with
her black mantilla over her head; and with black gloves on; and her
black morning silk dressbeautiful; composed; and at her ease; as
though she were well satisfied to undertake this early morning walk
from feelings of good naturesustained; probably; by some under…
current of a deeper sentiment。  Well; I would know all about it
before I returned to her father's house。

There hardly stands; as I think; on the earth; a building more
remarkable than the cathedral of Seville; and hardly one more grand。
Its enormous size; its gloom and darkness; the richness of
ornamentation in the details; contrasted with the severe simplicity
of the larger outlines; the variety of its architecture; the glory of
its paintings; and the wondrous splendour of its metallic decoration;
its altar…friezes; screens; rails; gates; and the like; render it; to
my mind; the first in interest among churches。  It has not the
coloured glass of Chartres; or the marble glory of Milan; or such a
forest of aisles as Antwerp; or so perfect a hue in stone as
Westminster; nor in mixed beauty of form and colour does it possess
anything equal to the choir of Cologne; but; for combined
magnificence and awe…compelling grandeur; I regard it as superior to
all other ecclesiastical edifices。

It is its deep gloom with which the stranger is so greatly struck on
his first entrance。  In a region so hot as the south of Spain; a cool
interior is a main object with the architect; and this it has been
necessary to effect by the exclusion of light; consequently the
church is dark; mysterious; and almost cold。  On the morning in
question; as we entered; it seemed to be filled with gloom; and the
distant sound of a slow footstep here and there beyond the transept
inspired one almost with awe。  Maria; when she first met me; had
begun to talk with her usual smile; offering me coffee and a biscuit
before I started。  〃I never eat biscuit;〃 I said; with almost a
severe tone; as I turned from her。  That dark; horrid man of the
plazawould she have offered him a cake had she been going to walk
with him in the gloom of the morning?  After that little had been
spoken between us。  She walked by my side with her accustomed smile;
but she had; as I flattered myself; begun to learn that I was not to
he won by a meaningless good nature。  〃We are lucky in our morning
for the view!〃 that was all she said; speaking with that peculiarly
clear; but slow pronunciation which she had assumed in learning our
language。

We entered the cathedral; and; walking the whole length of the aisle;
left it again at the porter's porch at the farther end。  Here we
passed through a low door on to the stone flight of steps; and at
once began to ascend。  〃There are a party of your countrymen up
before us;〃 said Maria; 〃the porter says that they went through the
lodge half an hour since。〃  〃I hope they will return before we are on
the top;〃 said I; bethinking myself of the task that was before me。
And indeed my heart was hardly at ease within me; for that which I
had to say would require all the spirit of which I was master。

The ascent to the Giralda is very long and very fatiguing; and we had
to pause on the various landings and in the singular belfry in order
that Miss Daguilar might recruit her strength and breath。  As we
rested on one of these occasions; in a gallery which runs round the
tower below the belfry; we heard a great noise of shouting; and a
clattering of sticks among the bells。  〃It is the party of your
countrymen who went up before us;〃 said she。  〃What a pity that
Englishmen should always make so much noise!〃  And then she spoke in
Spanish to the custodian of the bells; who is usually to be found in
a little cabin up there within the tower。  〃He says that they went up
shouting like demons;〃 continued Maria; and it seemed to me that she
looked as though I ought to be ashamed of the name of an Englishman。
〃They may not be so solemn in their demeanour as Spaniards;〃 I
answered; 〃but; for all that; there may be quite as much in them。〃

We then again began to mount; and before we had ascended much farther
we passed my three countrymen。  They were young men; with gray coats
and gray trousers; with slouched hats; and without gloves。  They had
fair faces and fair hair; and swung big sticks in their hands; with
crooked handles。  They laughed and talked loud; and; when we met
them; seemed to be racing with each other; but nevertheless they were
gentlemen。  No one who knows by sight what an English gentleman is;
could have doubted that; but I did acknowledge to myself that they
should have remembered that the edifice they were treading was a
church; and that the silence they were invading was the cherished
property of a courteous people。

〃They are all just the same as big boys;〃 said Maria。  The colour
instantly flew into my face; and I felt that it was my duty to speak
up for my own countrymen。  The word 〃boys〃 especially wounded my
ears。  It was as a boy that she treated me; but; on looking at that
befringed young Spanish Donwho was not; apparently; my elder in
ageshe had recognised a man。  However; I said nothing further till
I reached the summit。  One cannot speak with manly dignity while one
is out of breath on a staircase。

〃There; John;〃 she said; stretching her hands away over the fair
plain of the Guadalquivir; as soon as we stood against the parapet;
〃is not that lovely?〃

I would not deign to notice this。  〃Maria;〃 I said; 〃I think that you
are too hard upon my countrymen?〃

〃Too hard! no; for I love them。  They are so good and industrious;
and come home to their wives; and take care of their children。  But
why do they make themselves sosowhat the French call gauche?〃

〃Good and industrious; and come home to their wives!〃 thought I。  〃I
believe you hardly understand us as yet;〃 I answered。  〃Our domestic
virtues are not always so very prominent; but; I believe; we know how
to conduct ourselves as gentlemen:  at any rate; as well as
Spaniards。〃  I was very angrynot at the faults; but at the good
qualities imputed to us。

〃In affairs of business; yes;〃 said Maria; with a look of firm
confidence in her own opinionthat look of confidence which she has
never lost; and I pray that she may never lose it while I remain with
her〃but in the little intercourses of the world; no!  A Spaniard
never forgets what is personally due either to himself or his
neighbours。  If he is eating an onion; he eats it as an onion should
be eaten。〃

〃In such matters as that he is very grand; no doubt;〃 said I;
angrily。

〃And why should you not eat an onion properly; John?  Now; I heard a
story yesterday from Donabout two Englishmen; which annoyed me very
much。〃  I did not exactly catch the name of the Don in question but I
felt through every nerve in my body that it was the man who had been
talking to her on the plaza。

〃And what have they done?〃 said I。  〃But it is the same everywhere。
We are always abused; but; nevertheless; no people are so welcome。
At any rate; we pay for the mischief we do。〃  I was angry with myself
the moment the words were out of my mouth; for; after all; there is
no feeling more mean than that pocket…confidence with which an
Englishman sometimes swaggers。

〃There was no mischief done in this case;〃 she answered。  〃It was
simply that two men have made themselves ridiculous for ever。  The
story is all about Seville; and; of course; it annoys me that they
should be Englishmen。〃

〃And what did they do?〃

〃The Marquis D'Almavivas was coming up to Seville in the boat; and
they behaved to him in the most outrageous manner。  He is here now
and is going to give a series of fetes。  Of course he will not ask a
single Englishman。〃

〃We shall manage to live even though the Marquis D'Almavivas may
frown upon us;〃 said I; proudly。

〃He is the richest; and also the best of our noblemen;〃 continued
Maria; 〃and I never heard of anything so absurd as what they did to
him。  It made me blush when Don  told me。〃  Don Tomas; I thought
she said。

〃If he be the best of your noblemen; how comes it that he is angry
because he has met two vulgar men?  It is not to be supposed that
every Englishman is a gentleman。〃

〃Angry!  Oh; no! he was not angry; he enjoyed the joke too much for
that。  He got completely the best of them; though they did not know
it; poor fools!  How would your Lord John Russell behave if two
Spaniards in an English railway carriage were to pull him about and
tear his clothes?〃

〃He would give them in charge to a policeman; of course;〃 said I;
speaking of such a matter with the contempt it deserved。
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