the book of tea-第3部分

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The　Cake…tea　is　roasted　before　the　fire　until　it　becomes　soft　like　a　baby's　arm　and　is　shredded　into　powder　between　pieces　of　fine　paper。　　Salt　is　put　in　the　first　boil；　the　tea　in　the　second。　At　the　third　boil；　a　dipperful　of　cold　water　is　poured　into　the　kettle　to　settle　the　tea　and　revive　the　〃youth　of　the　water。〃　　Then　the　beverage　was　poured　into　cups　and　drunk。　　O　nectar！　　The　filmy　leaflet　hung　like　scaly　clouds　in　a　serene　sky　or　floated　like　waterlilies　on　emerald　streams。　　It　was　of　such　a　beverage　that　　Lotung；　a　Tang　poet；　wrote：　〃The　first　cup　moistens　my　lips　and　throat；　the　second　cup　breaks　my　loneliness；　the　third　cup　　searches　my　barren　entrail　but　to　find　therein　some　five　thousand　volumes　of　odd　ideographs。　　The　fourth　cup　raises　a　slight　perspiration；all　the　wrong　of　life　passes　away　through　my　pores。　　At　the　fifth　cup　I　am　purified；　the　sixth　cup　calls　me　to　the　realms　of　the　immortals。　　The　seventh　cupah；　but　I　could　take　no　more！　　I　only　feel　the　breath　of　cool　wind　that　rises　in　my　sleeves。　　Where　is　Horaisan？　　Let　me　ride　on　this　sweet　breeze　and　waft　away　thither。〃

The　remaining　chapters　of　the　〃Chaking〃　treat　of　the　vulgarity　of　the　ordinary　methods　of　tea…drinking；　a　historical　summary　of　illustrious　tea…drinkers；　the　famous　tea　plantations　of　　China；　the　possible　variations　of　the　tea…service　and　illustrations　of　the　tea…utensils。　　The　last　is　unfortunately　lost。

The　appearance　of　the　〃Chaking〃　must　have　created　　considerable　sensation　at　the　time。　　Luwuh　was　befriended　by　the　Emperor　Taisung　（763…779）；　and　his　fame　attracted　　many　followers。　　Some　exquisites　were　said　to　have　been　able　to　detect　the　tea　made　by　Luwuh　from　that　of　his　disciples。　One　mandarin　has　his　name　immortalised　by　his　failure　to　appreciate　the　tea　of　this　great　master。

In　the　Sung　dynasty　the　whipped　tea　came　into　fashion　and　created　the　second　school　of　Tea。　　The　leaves　were　ground　to　fine　powder　in　a　small　stone　mill；　and　the　preparation　was　whipped　in　hot　water　by　a　delicate　whisk　made　of　split　bamboo。　The　new　process　led　to　some　change　in　the　tea…equippage　of　Luwuh；　as　well　as　in　the　choice　of　leaves。　　Salt　was　discarded　forever。　　The　enthusiasm　of　the　Sung　people　for　tea　knew　no　bounds。　　Epicures　vied　with　each　other　in　discovering　new　varieties；　and　regular　tournaments　were　held　to　decide　their　superiority。　　The　Emperor　Kiasung　（1101…1124）；　who　was　too　great　an　artist　to　be　a　well…behaved　monarch；　lavished　his　　treasures　on　the　attainment　of　rare　species。　　He　himself　wrote　a　dissertation　on　the　twenty　kinds　of　tea；　among　which　he　prizes　the　〃white　tea〃　as　of　the　rarest　and　finest　quality。

The　tea…ideal　of　the　Sungs　differed　from　the　Tangs　even　as　their　notion　of　life　differed。　　They　sought　to　actualize　what　their　predecessors　tried　to　symbolise。　　To　the　Neo…Confucian　mind　the　cosmic　law　was　not　reflected　in　the　phenomenal　world；　but　the　phenomenal　world　was　the　cosmic　law　itself。　　Aeons　　were　but　momentsNirvana　always　within　grasp。　　The　Taoist　conception　that　immortality　lay　in　the　eternal　change　permeated　all　their　modes　of　thought。　　It　was　the　process；　not　the　deed；　which　was　interesting。　　It　was　the　completing；　not　the　completion；　which　was　really　vital。　　Man　came　thus　at　once　face　to　face　with　nature。　　A　new　meaning　grew　into　the　art　of　life。　　The　tea　began　to　be　not　a　poetical　pastime；　but　one　of　the　methods　of　self…realisation。　　Wangyucheng　eulogised　tea　as　〃flooding　his　soul　like　a　direct　appeal；　that　its　delicate　bitterness　reminded　him　of　the　aftertaste　of　a　good　counsel。〃　　Sotumpa　wrote　of　　the　strength　of　the　immaculate　purity　in　tea　which　defied　　corruption　as　a　truly　virtuous　man。　　Among　the　Buddhists；　the　southern　Zen　sect；　which　incorporated　so　much　of　Taoist　doctrines；　formulated　an　elaborate　ritual　of　tea。　　The　monks　gathered　before　the　image　of　Bodhi　Dharma　and　drank　tea　out　of　a　single　bowl　with　the　profound　formality　of　a　　holy　sacrament。　　It　was　this　Zen　ritual　which　finally　developed　　into　the　Tea…ceremony　of　Japan　in　the　fifteenth　century。

Unfortunately　the　sudden　outburst　of　the　Mongol　tribes　in　the　thirteenth　century　which　resulted　in　the　devastation　and　conquest　　of　China　under　the　barbaric　rule　of　the　Yuen　Emperors；　　destroyed　all　the　fruits　of　Sung　culture。　　The　native　dynasty　of　　the　Mings　which　attempted　re…nationalisation　in　the　middle　　of　the　fifteenth　century　was　harassed　by　internal　troubles；　and　China　again　fell　under　the　alien　rule　of　the　Manchus　in　the　seventeenth　century。　　Manners　and　customs　changed　to　leave　no　vestige　of　the　former　times。　　The　powdered　tea　is　　entirely　forgotten。　　We　find　a　Ming　commentator　at　loss　to　recall　the　shape　of　the　tea　whisk　mentioned　in　one　of　the　Sung　classics。　　Tea　is　now　taken　by　steeping　the　leaves　in　hot　water　in　a　bowl　or　cup。　　The　reason　why　the　Western　world　is　innocent　of　the　older　method　of　drinking　tea　is　explained　by　the　fact　that　Europe　knew　it　only　at　the　close　of　the　Ming　dynasty。

To　the　latter…day　Chinese　tea　is　a　delicious　beverage；　but　not　an　ideal。　　The　long　woes　of　his　country　have　robbed　him　of　the　zest　for　the　meaning　of　life。　　He　has　become　modern；　that　is　to　say；　old　and　disenchanted。　　He　has　lost　that　sublime　faith　in　illusions　which　constitutes　the　eternal　youth　and　vigour　of　the　poets　and　ancients。　　He　is　an　eclectic　and　politely　accepts　the　traditions　of　the　universe。　He　toys　with　Nature；　but　does　not　condescend　to　conquer　or　worship　her。　　His　Leaf…tea　is　often　wonderful　with　its　flower…like　aroma；　but　the　romance　of　the　Tang　and　Sung　ceremonials　are　not　to　be　found　in　his　cup。

Japan；　which　followed　closely　on　the　footsteps　of　Chinese　civilisation；　has　known　the　tea　in　all　its　three　stages。　　As　early　as　the　year　729　we　read　of　the　Emperor　Shomu　giving　　tea　to　one　hundred　monks　at　his　palace　in　Nara。　　The　leaves　　were　probably　imported　by　our　ambassadors　to　the　Tang　Court　and　prepared　in　the　way　then　in　fashion。　　In　801　the　monk　　Saicho　brought　back　some　seeds　and　planted　them　in　Yeisan。　　　Many　tea…gardens　are　heard　of　in　succeeding　centuries；　as　　well　as　the　delight　of　the　aristocracy　and　priesthood　in　the　　beverage。　　The　Sung　tea　reached　us　in　1191　with　the　return　of　Yeisai…zenji；　who　went　there　to　study　the　southern　Zen　school。　　The　new　seeds　which　he　carried　home　were　successfully　planted　in　three　places；　one　of　which；　the　Uji　district　near　Kioto；　bears　still　the　name　of　producing　the　best　tea　in　the　world。　　The　southern　Zen　spread　with　marvellous　rapidity；　and　with　it　the　tea…ritual　and　the　tea…ideal　of　the　Sung。　　By　the　fifteenth　century；　under　the　patronage　of　the　Shogun；　　Ashikaga…Voshinasa；　the　tea　ceremony　is　fully　constituted　and　made　into　an　independent　and　secular　performance。　Since　then　Teaism　is　fully　established　in　Japan。　　The　use　of　the　steeped　tea　of　the　later　China　is　comparatively　recent　among　us；　being　only　known　since　the　middle　of　the　　seventeenth　century。　　It　has　replaced　the　powdered　tea　in　ordinary　consumption；　though　the　latter　still　continues　to　hold　its　place　as　the　tea　of　teas。

It　is　in　the　Japanese　tea　ceremony　that　we　see　the　culmination　of　tea…ideals。　　Our　successful　resistance　of　the　Mongol　invasion　in　1281　had　enabled　us　to　carry　on　the　Sung　movement　so　disastrously　cut　off　in　China　itself　through　the　nomadic　inroad。　　Tea　with　us　became　more　than　an　idealisation　of　the　form　of　drinking；　it　is　a　religion　of　the　art　of　life。　　The　beverage　grew　to　be　an　excuse　for　the　worship　of　purity　and　refinement；　a　sacred　function　at　which　the　host　and　guest　joined　to　produce　for　that　occasion　the　utmost　beatitude　of　the　mundane。　　The　tea…room　was　an　oasis　in　the　dreary　waste　of　existence　where　weary　travellers　could　meet　to　drink　from　the　common　spring　of　art…　appreciation。　　The　ceremony　was　an　improvised　drama　whose　plot　was　woven　about　the　tea；　the　flowers；　and　the　paintings。　　Not　a　colour　to　disturb　the　tone　of　the　room；　not　a　sound　to　mar　the　rhythm　of　things；　not　a　　gesture　to　obtrude　on　the　harmony；　not　a　word　to　break　　the　unity　of　the　surroundings；　all　movements　to　be　performed　simply　and　naturallysuch　were　the　aims　of　the　tea…　ceremony。　　And　strangely　enough　it　was　often　successful。　A　subtle　philosophy　lay　behind　it　all。　　Teaism　was　Taoism　in　disguise。




III。　　Taoism　and　Zennism


The　connection　of　Zennism　with　tea　is　proverbial。　　We　　have　already　remarked　that　the　tea…ceremony　was　a　development　of　the　Zen　ritual。　　The　name　of　Laotse；　the　founder　of　Taoism；　is　also　intimately　associated　with　the　history　of　tea。　　It　is　written　in　the　Chinese　school　manual　concerning　the　origin　of　habits　and　customs　that　the　　ceremony　of　offering　tea　to　a　guest　began　with　Kwanyin；　a　well…known　disciple　of　Laotse；　who　first　at　the　gate　of　　the　Han　Pass　presented　to　the　〃Old　Philosopher〃　a　cup　　of　the　golden　elixir。　　We　shall　not　stop　to　discuss　the　　authenticity　of　such　tales；　which　are　valuable；　however；　　as　confirming　the　early　use　of　the　beverage　by　the　Taoists。　Our　interest　in　Taoism　and　Zennism　here　lies　mainly　in　those　ideas　regarding　life　and　art　which　are　so　embodied　in　what　we　call　Teaism。

It　is　to　be　regretted　that　as　yet　there　appears　to　be　no　adequate　presentation　of　the　Taoists　and　Zen　doctrines　in　any　foreign　language；　though　we　have　had　several　laudable　attempts。

Translation　is　always　a　treason；　and　as　a　Ming　author　observes；　can　at　its　best　be　only　the　reverse　side　of　a　　brocade；all　the　threads　are　there；　but　not　the　subtlety　of　　colour　or　design。　　But；　after　all；　what　great　doctrine　is　there　which　is　easy　to　expound？　　The　ancient　sages　never　put　their　teachings　in　systematic　form。　　They　spoke　in　paradoxes；　for　they　were　afraid　of　uttering　half…truths。　　　They　began　by　talking　like　fools　and　ended　by　making　their　hearers　wise。　　Laotse　himself；　with　his　quaint　humour；　says；　〃If　people　of　inferior　intelligence　hear　of　the　Tao；　they　laugh　immensely。　　It　would　not　be　the　Tao　unless　they　laughed　at　it。〃

The　Tao　literally　means　a　Path。　　It　has　been　severally　translated　　as　the　Way；　the　Absolute；　the　Law；　Nature；　Supreme　Reason；　the　Mode。　　These　renderings　are　not　incorrect；　for　the　use　of　the　term　by　the　Taoists　differs　according　to　the　subject…matter　of　the　inquiry。　　Laotse　himself　spoke　of　it　thus：　〃There　is　a　thing　which　is　all…containing；　which　was　born　before　the　existence　of